HADSAR

Off the Beaten track in a Himachali Haven
Strategically located, Hadsar village lies on the annual route of the Gaddi shepherds, only 13 km from the ancient town of Brahmaur and is also a stating point for the Manimahesh Yatra.

High up above the gorge of the Budhil Nala, in the western corner of Himachal Pradesh, lies Hadsar village. The nala itself flows into the Ravi river, one of the key constituents in the Indus system.

Hadsar has special significance from several points of view. It is the road head, 13 km from the ancient capital of Chamba state at Brahmaur, on the annual route of the Gaddi shepherds. It is also the starting point for the yatra (travel) to Manimahesh lake and Manimahesh Kailash. The distance of 34 km from Brahmaur to the lake at 3,950 metres is usually covered is three days. There is attractive mountain scenery all round and for the adventure seeker there are three high mountain passes, the Kalicho, Kugti and Chobia, that lead into neighbouring lahul across the pir Panjal range.

A visit to Hadsar thus leads the visitor off the beaten track. Starting from Chamba, the road climbs steadily for 65 km along the Ravi and then the Budhil, to reach Brahmaur. The 8th to 10th century Chaurasi temples in the ancient town are the Gaddis’s major place of worship. For the rest the air of continual arrival and departure in Hadsar gives it that special flavour of activity in these remote mountains. Even in summer, there is an air of urgency, for the terrain is an air of urgency, for the terrain is strenuous and the day’s work must get done before the wind picks up in the afternoon. But the visitor has the advantage of joining up with one of the Gaddi shepherd groups as they move their large flocks of sheep and goats towards the pastures. The upper reaches can be as high as 3,500m and the casual visitor will probably not wish to go that far. Instead, one may spend the first day at Hadsar, learning how to use a gaddi chola or loose white woolen robe that comes up to the knees, fastened at the waist with a black-coloured wool rope. Some enterprising men will even transport little lambs in them, while tending their flocks, with ease. Or one may sample their hot meal of roti and rajma cooked on an open stone chulha and topped up with goat milk curd. Some of the flocks may number several hundred and it is remarkable that the mothers always manage to track down their young.

If one’s itinerary allows the journey to be made during Janamashtami, there is the opportunity of joining the sacred Manimahesh Kailash Yatra, a 22 km pilgrimage from Hadsar.

FAST FACTS

How to Reach Hadsar

• By Air : Nearest airport is at Gaggal in Knagra(170 km from Chamba)
• By Rail : Nearest railhead is at pathankot(118 km from Chamba)
• By Road : From Chamba (78 km away)

WHERE TO STAY:

Standard hotel accommodation at Chamba, private lodges in Brahmaur.

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